Toko Sake – The Heritage of Kojima Sohonten in Yamagata

I think one of the main reasons I love Toko so much is its deep connection to history — especially its tradition as a sake once presented to the Uesugi clan.
That legacy gives it a sense of dignity and authenticity that feels alive even today.
What I find inspiring is that the brewery hasn’t just revived an old sake made for the Uesugi family; it has carried that spirit forward into modern times.
Their junmai sake and other varieties are also exceptionally delicious, offering genuine craftsmanship at a level you can enjoy casually.
For me, Toko is a brand that lets you experience true, high-quality Japanese sake — accessible, refined, and rooted in centuries of tradition.

Introduction: The Spirit of Yonezawa and the Legacy of Toko

Among Japan’s oldest sake breweries, Toko (東光) from Kojima Sohonten in Yonezawa City, Yamagata Prefecture, stands as a symbol of continuity and craft. Founded in 1597 by the first-generation brewer Yazaemon Kojima, the brewery has been producing sake for over four centuries. With the scenic mountains of southern Yamagata as its backdrop and pure snowmelt water running beneath its grounds, Toko’s sake expresses the harmony between craftsmanship and nature that defines Japanese culture itself.

Historically, Kojima Sohonten was appointed as an official purveyor to the Uesugi Domain during the Edo period, supplying the feudal lords of Yonezawa with their ceremonial sake. This connection to the samurai culture of refinement and discipline still shapes Toko’s approach today—balancing elegance, purity, and quiet strength in every bottle.

Toko’s Philosophy: Brewing with Purity and Respect for Nature

Toko’s brewing motto, as articulated by the current 23rd-generation Yazaemon Kojima, is “to brew sake that respects life.” The philosophy extends beyond taste—it encompasses sustainability, local collaboration, and deep reverence for the natural environment of Yamagata. Using soft, mineral-balanced snowmelt water that flows through the Mogami and Okitama basins, Toko ensures that every drop of sake carries the purity of its origin.

Unlike many modern breweries, Kojima Sohonten emphasizes junmai-only brewing—that is, sake made solely from rice, water, and koji, without the addition of distilled alcohol. This approach results in sakes that showcase the natural sweetness and texture of rice, while maintaining remarkable balance and clarity.

Signature Labels and Award-Winning Sake

Toko offers a broad lineup that bridges classic Japanese tradition and global appeal. The brand’s sake has gained recognition both domestically and internationally, including top honors at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) 2024, where its Toko Junmai Daiginjo Fukuro-tsuri Juhachi won the “Champion Junmai Daiginjo” award.

Toko Junmai Daiginjo Fukuro-tsuri Juhachi

This sake represents the pinnacle of Toko’s artistry. “Fukuro-tsuri” refers to the gravity-drip method—where sake is collected drop by drop from hanging cloth bags, without mechanical pressure. The result is a liquid of supreme clarity and aroma. With a polishing ratio of 35% and crafted from Yamada Nishiki rice, it delivers a refined fragrance of pear and melon, silky texture, and lingering sweetness balanced by pristine acidity.

Toko Junmai Ginjo Dewa San San

Made with Yamagata’s signature rice “Dewa San San,” this Junmai Ginjo embodies the local terroir. It offers aromas of green apple and white peach, and a smooth palate that finishes with a gentle crispness. It pairs beautifully with light seafood and tempura, making it a favorite for refined dining experiences.

Toko Daiginjo Yamada Nishiki

Another flagship sake polished to 35%, this expression features vivid fruitiness and a soft sweetness. It reflects Toko’s balance between precision and richness, ideal for celebratory occasions or fine omakase pairings.

Toko Chokarakuchi Junmai Ginjo

Literally meaning “ultra-dry,” this sake caters to those who prefer a crisp, sharp finish without losing the umami character. Its clean acidity and depth make it versatile for pairing with grilled fish and sushi.

Retsu (洌) – A Modern Sub-Brand

Retsu, meaning “clear and cold,” is a limited sub-brand brewed by Kojima Sohonten for select retailers. It explores a more contemporary aesthetic, using higher temperature fermentations to yield structured, refreshing sake suitable for both Japanese and Western dining.

Distinctive Brewing Techniques

Every step in Toko’s brewing process reflects a blend of time-honored practice and innovation. The brewery uses local Yamagata rice varieties such as Dewa San San and Dewa no Sato, combined with traditional yeast strains cultivated for gentle, aromatic fermentation.

• Water Source: Soft snowmelt water from the Iide Mountain Range, filtered naturally through volcanic rock layers beneath Yonezawa.
• Fermentation Style: Slow, cold fermentation allows the sake to develop nuanced fruit esters and delicate umami without excess acidity.
• Rice Polishing: Each batch’s polishing ratio is carefully set—ranging from 35% for daiginjo to 55% for junmai ginjo—to match the rice type and intended expression.
• Sustainability Efforts: Spent rice husks and sake lees are recycled into fertilizer and biogas fuel in collaboration with local agricultural and energy partners.

This harmony of modern environmental awareness and traditional craftsmanship has made Toko one of Japan’s most forward-thinking heritage breweries.

The Kojima Family: A Legacy of 23 Generations

The Kojima family has guided the brewery for more than 420 years, with each generation inheriting not only the techniques but also the name “Yazaemon.” The current head, 23rd Yazaemon Kojima, is known for his calm presence, technical precision, and community engagement. Under his leadership, Toko has modernized production without compromising authenticity, introducing new temperature-controlled fermentation rooms and maintaining the traditional earthen-walled storehouses for aging.

Visitors to the brewery often remark on the serene atmosphere of the facility—where the scent of steamed rice mingles with cedar barrels, and centuries-old beams testify to a lineage of devotion. Despite its long history, Toko feels distinctly contemporary in spirit: confident, understated, and quietly ambitious.

Toko Sake Museum – A Living Heritage

The original Edo-era brewery complex has been transformed into the Toko Sake Museum (“Toko no Sakagura”), located within walking distance from central Yonezawa. Inside, visitors can see historical brewing tools, wooden fermentation tubs, and preserved architectural details, including the traditional “kusabi” joinery method that uses no nails. Exhibits explain how sake evolved from the feudal era to the present, and tastings are available for seasonal and premium selections.

• Location: 7-46 Hachimanmachi, Yonezawa-shi, Yamagata Prefecture, Japan
• Access: 15 minutes by car from JR Yonezawa Station
• Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM (Closed Wednesdays)
• Official Website: https://www.sake-toko.co.jp/en/

Flavor Profile and Food Pairing

Toko’s sake is known for its gentle sweetness, fine acidity, and clean finish. The brewery’s junmai daiginjo range is particularly aromatic—reminiscent of pear, white peach, and lychee—making it ideal for pairing with delicate dishes such as sushi, sashimi, and lightly grilled vegetables. The Junmai series offers a deeper umami, suitable for pairing with Yamagata’s local specialties like imoni (taro stew) and miso-marinated beef.

Because of its refined yet approachable taste, Toko sake is now featured in Michelin-starred restaurants across Japan and has gained recognition in global sake competitions.

Conclusion: A Harmony of Heritage and Innovation

Toko Sake encapsulates what makes Yamagata’s brewing culture so respected worldwide—dedication to craft, honesty to ingredients, and quiet pursuit of perfection. Over four centuries, Kojima Sohonten has not only preserved its legacy but also redefined what premium sake can be: pure, balanced, and full of life.

Whether enjoyed in its hometown of Yonezawa or served abroad at a fine dining table, every drop of Toko tells the story of a family, a region, and a timeless art form still evolving today.